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Fuel Filter Change - TDCI
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Overview Guide | |
Ford Model: | Mondeo Mk3 |
---|---|
Petrol/Diesel: | Diesel |
Estimated Cost: | £15-£20 |
Difficulty? | Easy |
How long does this take? | 30 minutes |
Contents
Mondeo Mk3 TDCI Fuel Filter Change
Introduction
This guide explains how to change the fuel filter on a Mk3 Mondeo TDCI. The particular car used for this guide is a 115bhp, 2006 model. Also as a "disclaimer", this guide is how I did it, and it worked for me. I cannot be held responsible for any damage caused to your vehicle by following this guide.
Preparation
Parts / Tools Required
For this job you will need:
- New fuel filter
- 13mm and 8mm spanners / sockets
- Plenty of rags
- Vacuum pump to prime the filter
Doing the Job
Accessing The Area
Open the bonnet and remove the engine cover. This is done by removing the oil dipstick, then the cover simply pulls off. Replace the dipstick afterwards to stop any dirt getting in there. The filter is located in the back left hand corner of the engine bay as you look from the front (just in front of where the driver sits) - Highlighted in the picture below (the engine cover has already been removed in this photo.)
Remove the top strut mount. There are 7 bolts that need to be removed which are shown in the photo below. When the bolts are out the mount lifts off. The bolts circled in red are 13mm and the ones in yellow are 8mm.
It is also a good idea to stuff loads of rags down the gap underneath the filter to protect the alternator.
The area should now look like this.
Removing the Old Filter
The fuel pipes come off very easily. They are clipped on, and the clips need to be released before pulling the pipes upwards. You can squeeze the clip from the back and push it to release, they will not fall out. When you pull the pipes off, some fuel will spill out so be ready with rags. Also make a note of which pipe goes where, although I found it was impossible to put them back on incorrectly anyway.
The filter itself is removed by pushing the quick release clip out of the way (circled in red below hidden behind the fuel pipe), and pull the filter up and out. Make a note of which way round the filter is before removal.
Fitting the New Filter
Drop the new filter into location, ensuring it is the right way round. The quick release clip will click into place. Check the filter feels secure.
First you only need to push on the two outside piples, and leave the centre one unattached. This is so you can prime the filter. The pipes push on very easily. When they are pushed all the way down (and won't go any further), push the clips back into place to secure the pipes.
Priming the New Filter
It is absolutely essential that you prime the new filter or you will really struggle to get the car started. It can also cause damage to the fuel pump by running it dry.
Using your hand vacuum pump, connect the pipe to the centre outlet of the filter (which you should not have connected yet). Then pump your vacuum pump until you see fuel start to come out the filter through your pipe. Then remove the hand vacuum pump, and connect the centre pipe using the method described above. The area should now look like this.
Finishing Off
Starting the Engine / Testing
It is now worth starting the engine before refitting the top strut mount and engine cover. Remove the rags from underneath the filter before attempting to start it! It will start fine so long as the filter has been primed correctly. I started the engine and gave it a few revs just in case there were a few air pockets in the fuel lines. When it is running have a good check round the new filter for leaks etc. I then refitted the top strut mount and took the car for a short drive to check there were no problems with performance etc.
When you return have another check round the new filter for leaks then refit the engine cover (oil dipstick has to be removed to put the cover back on).
You're Done!
That's it - job done. I continued to check the fuel filter every so often for a couple of weeks for leaks.