Difference between revisions of "Rear Wheel Bearing"

Revision as of 14:31, 16 December 2009

This is a draft.

This article applies to all Mk3 Mondeos. The part is common with Jaguar X-Type, so the instructions may work there, too - no promises.

Warning

It's worth getting a Haynes manual (Amazon: preface / facelift) despite having this guide, as you shouldn't go trusting your safety to some random community-editable resource you found on the internet. This should be treated as a clarification and expansion to the Haynes guide, not a replacement.

If you follow this guide, you're going to be working underneath a car that is jacked up with the handbrake off; and you're going to be replacing the bits that hold the rear wheels on. If you don't feel confident with that responsibility, get a qualified mechanic with insurance to do it.

As with all articles, the author, MEG and FordWiki accept no liability for injuries or damage incurred through following this article, or for inaccuracies therein.

Symptoms

A worn rear wheel bearing may show various symptoms:

• Play in the wheel: jack the car up and see if you can wobble the wheel side to side. There should be no play at all.
• Steady "thrum", maybe peaking at certain speeds and on certain surfaces
• Grinding noise, perhaps getting worse or better on corners as the weight distribution and lateral load changes

Make sure you're not misdiagnosing poor wheel balance or dodgy tyres. If you're at all uncertain, swap your wheels front-to-back and see if the noise remains.

What you'll need

Parts

1. A new wheel bearing. Your options here are: buy from your Ford dealer (expensive); buy the same part (SKF part VKBA 3576) elsewhere; buy a cheaper pattern part; get a secondhand bearing.
2. Bolts. The SKF kit comes with new bolts. Otherwise, re-use your old ones or preferably (as these are holding your rear wheels on) buy a set of 4 new ones per side from your Ford dealer (about 30p each). FINIS code?

Here's the SKF box - note that the picture on the box is a generic bearing picture, not the Mondeo bearing!

Tools

1. Jack
2. Axle stand
3. Wheel chocks - you're working on a car with the handbrake off and the rear wheel jacked up. Don't take chances here.
4. Wheel brace
5. Long-reach Torx T50 bit. The bolts holding the hub to the car are accessed through a small hole (diameter 18mm). You'll need at least 3" of extension bar to get to it. 3/8" drive sockets should fit through the hole; 1/2" ones won't.
6. If you use the bolts in the SKF kit, you'll need a Torx E12 socket - again, 3/8" with an extension. Halfords sell these. Although a 10mm standard socket fits an E12 bolt, don't be tempted to try to use this as you'll mess up the bolt and removal will be really difficult.
7. Thread lock compound - SKF bolts are pre-treated with some blue gunk, otherwise apply your own.
8. Torx T25 bit to undo the ABS sensor. If your replacement has a different fastener, you'll need a tool for that too.
9. Torque wrench. Bolt torque is important, and the hub bolts aren't the place to go guessing.

Some tools shown below - 6" long 3/8" drive extension bar at the back, fronted by a T50 bit, E12 bolt from the SKF kit, E12 socket and a 3/8" to 1/2" adaptor for my 1/2" drive socket set and torque wrench.

Here's how the bolt is accessed. My 6" bar is unnecessarily long - a 3" would be fine. The distance between the top faces of the two surfaces is 51mm.

The access hole on the SKF hub (as factory-fitted) is 18mm diameter. Make sure your tools will fit through that.

Here's the ABS sensor on the rear of the hub:

Instructions to come when I've done the job, unless anyone else gets to it first.