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Difference between revisions of "Brake Pads + Discs Replacement (Mondeo Mk1/2)"
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{{note|'''The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.'''<br> | {{note|'''The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.'''<br> | ||
'''For more information, visit the [http://www.talkford.com/forum/596-mondeo/ Ford Mondeo] forum on [http://www.talkford.com TalkFord.com], the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.'''}} | '''For more information, visit the [http://www.talkford.com/forum/596-mondeo/ Ford Mondeo] forum on [http://www.talkford.com TalkFord.com], the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.'''}} | ||
| + | ---- | ||
| + | {{Infobox | ||
| + | |name = Infobox Template | ||
| + | |bodystyle = float:right; valign:top; | ||
| + | |image = [[File:Fordwiki infobox.png]] | ||
| + | |imagestyle = | ||
| + | |caption = Overview Guide | ||
| + | |captionstyle = | ||
| + | |headerstyle = background:#ccf; | ||
| + | |labelstyle = background:#ddf; | ||
| + | |datastyle = text-align:right; | ||
| + | |header1 = | ||
| + | |label1 = Ford Model: | ||
| + | |data1 = '''Mondeo''' | ||
| + | |header2 = | ||
| + | |label2 = Petrol/Diesel: | ||
| + | |data2 = '''???''' | ||
| + | |header3 = | ||
| + | |label3 = Estimated Cost: | ||
| + | |data3 = '''???''' | ||
| + | |header4 = | ||
| + | |label4 = Difficulty? | ||
| + | |data4 = '''???''' | ||
| + | |label5 = How long does this take? | ||
| + | |data5 = '''???''' | ||
| + | }} | ||
| Line 6: | Line 32: | ||
This includes changing brake pads, discs, calipers and flexible hoses. Brake/Clutch Bleeding procedures are also included. The procedure for Mk3/4 should be almost identical, however the tools required may be slightly different due to different calipers and systems being used. | This includes changing brake pads, discs, calipers and flexible hoses. Brake/Clutch Bleeding procedures are also included. The procedure for Mk3/4 should be almost identical, however the tools required may be slightly different due to different calipers and systems being used. | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''DISCLAIMER: Proper function of the brake system is vital and could be a matter of life and death to you and/or others. If you do not have access to the proper tools needed for this procedure DO NOT attempt any work on the brakes. Should you proceed be sure to check, and double check, that ALL procedures have been carried out correctly and ALL parts are properly fitted before driving the car.''' | ||
| Line 13: | Line 41: | ||
7mm allen key | 7mm allen key | ||
| − | Tools would be nice to have: | + | '''Tools would be nice to have:''' |
| + | |||
Long Nose Pilers | Long Nose Pilers | ||
| + | |||
G-Clamp | G-Clamp | ||
| + | |||
| + | WD40 or similar penetrating spray | ||
| + | |||
| + | Wire brush | ||
| + | |||
Copper Grease (or CeraTec) | Copper Grease (or CeraTec) | ||
| Line 24: | Line 59: | ||
2. Jack up the car and take off the wheel (obviously) | 2. Jack up the car and take off the wheel (obviously) | ||
| − | 3. Take out the plastic caps at the back of the caliper, covering the slider bolts. Then undo the sliding bolts with 7mm allen key. Make sure the allen key is fully inserted or you may risk rounding off the socket. You can take the bolts out but you don't have to. However it's a good chance to give that slider bolt a good clean. It's important that the sliding bolts clear the caliper carrier, Longnose pilers is handy to pull them out. | + | 3. Take out the 2 plastic caps at the back of the caliper, covering the slider bolts. Then undo the sliding bolts with 7mm allen key. Make sure the allen key is fully inserted or you may risk rounding off the socket. Beware, they can be hard to remove if brakes haven't been serviced for a while. Use a fair amount of WD40 or similar and be patient. You can take the bolts out but you don't have to. However it's a good chance to give that slider bolt a good clean. It's important that the sliding bolts clear the caliper carrier, Longnose pilers is handy to pull them out. |
4. Take off the caliper retaining spring facing you. Preferably using the pilers as sometimes it will fly off and retrieving such item in a mess is no fun. | 4. Take off the caliper retaining spring facing you. Preferably using the pilers as sometimes it will fly off and retrieving such item in a mess is no fun. | ||
| − | 5. You should be able to take off the caliper now. A little wiggle, or a bit of mild force maybe required as the clearance between the disc and pads are minute. If it simply won't let go check the sliding bolts again. Do not let the flexible hose take the weight or it may damage the hose. | + | 5. You should be able to take off the caliper now. A little wiggle, or a bit of mild force maybe required as the clearance between the disc and pads are minute. If it simply won't let go check the sliding bolts again. Do not let the flexible hose take the weight or it may damage the hose, use a strip or "spider/bungee" strap and hang it from the spring. |
6. Remove the pads. | 6. Remove the pads. | ||
| Line 34: | Line 69: | ||
7. Now you need to wind back the caliper piston. A G-Clamp is preferable tool. You can either use a flat file (what I use normally) or the old brake pad to cover the piston and push it back. When doing so undo the brake fluid reservoir cap and keep an eye on the fluid level. Make sure it doesn't overflow especially when you have got one side of the car jacked up. Also be careful that the other end of the clamp is on the caliper body not on the flexible hose connector. | 7. Now you need to wind back the caliper piston. A G-Clamp is preferable tool. You can either use a flat file (what I use normally) or the old brake pad to cover the piston and push it back. When doing so undo the brake fluid reservoir cap and keep an eye on the fluid level. Make sure it doesn't overflow especially when you have got one side of the car jacked up. Also be careful that the other end of the clamp is on the caliper body not on the flexible hose connector. | ||
| − | 8. Fit Pads. Apply copper grease to the BACK of the new brake pads. This helps reducing brake squeal. Be careful | + | 8. Fit Pads. Apply a thin amount of copper grease to the BACK of the new brake pads. This helps reducing brake squeal. Be careful NOT to get the friction side contaminated or you will need to get a set of new pads (should you value your life). |
| − | 9. Refit the caliper, if you have taken out the sliding bolts it's a good chance to give them a good clean and apply copper grease on them. Only a tiny amount along the circumference is enough. Make sure the caps are back on. Put back the spring clip. One trick is to put one end in first, the the other end into the hole and pull the spring down round the carrier. Be careful not to let it fly off. | + | 9. Refit the caliper, if you have taken out the sliding bolts it's a good chance to give them a good clean and apply copper grease on them. Only a tiny amount along the circumference is enough. Make sure the caps are back on. Put back the spring clip. This can be a little tricky, but again, patience is the key. One trick is to put one end in first, the the other end into the hole and pull the spring down round the carrier. Be careful not to let it fly off. |
| − | 10. Refit wheel, lower the car and | + | 10. Refit wheel, lower the car and drive carefully for the first few miles as new pads need time to bed in and in the event should you have made a mistake, God forbid it. |
| Line 45: | Line 80: | ||
====Tools Required:==== | ====Tools Required:==== | ||
15mm socket | 15mm socket | ||
| + | |||
| + | Copper Grease (or CeraTec) | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Tools would be nice to have:''' | ||
| + | |||
| + | Lump hammer/rubber mallet | ||
| + | |||
| + | WD40 or similar penetrating spray | ||
| + | |||
| + | Wire brush | ||
| + | |||
| + | Acetylene torch (heating up the disc for a few minutes could do wonders, but DO NOT apply WD40 or any kind of penetrating spray to the disc before it has cooled down) | ||
| + | |||
| + | Angle Grinder and chisel (as a last resort) | ||
====Procedure==== | ====Procedure==== | ||
| Line 50: | Line 99: | ||
[Slots in between [Front Brake Pads - Mk1/2] Step 5-6. | [Slots in between [Front Brake Pads - Mk1/2] Step 5-6. | ||
| − | 6. To remove the caliper carrier, there are two 15mm bolts at the back holding them on. May need a bit of force and some penetrating spray to undo them. | + | 6. To remove the caliper carrier, there are two 15mm bolts at the back holding them on. May need a bit of force and some WD40/penetrating spray to undo them. |
| − | 7. Remove the disc retaining clips. Long nose pilers helps in this case to pull them out. Unless if you have got new ones flatten them with the pilers and keep them aside for reuse later. | + | 7. Remove the disc retaining clips (they may or may not be present). Long nose pilers helps in this case to pull them out. Unless if you have got new ones flatten them with the pilers and keep them aside for reuse later. |
| + | If you're lucky the disc can now easily be pulled out, however a rubber mallet or lump hammer may be useful to help tab the disc out. Use moderate but not overly excessive force and start out by hitting the disc BETWEEN the lugs - DO NOT hit the lugs themselves Hit it a few times between each lug then the opposing side, alternating between each lug. If that won't work give the hub rear surroundings a good soaking with lots of WD40 or similar, let it soak in for as long as possible (preferably several hours or even overnight) and run a wire brush around the rear of the discs and try again. If the disc is still stuck try hitting the disc hard alternately from the front and the back, turning the disc after every few whacks. Keep using fair amounts of WD40 and be patient. If the disc is still totally siezed and welded to the hub you may have to cut it up. Use an angle grinder and cut the disc from edge to hub (several cuts may be needed), pry a chisel into the cut, work it with the hammer and the disc WILL break into pieces and come off. | ||
| − | 8. Clean the wheel hub and put copper grease onto the wheel hub surface. | + | 8. Clean the wheel hub thoroughly using wire brush and put copper grease onto the wheel hub surface, this will make it much easier removing the disc upon replacement. |
| − | 9. Clean the new disc with brake cleaner and fit the disc on. Install the spring clip. | + | 9. Clean the new disc with brake cleaner and fit the disc on. Install the spring clip if available. |
10. Reinstall caliper carrier. | 10. Reinstall caliper carrier. | ||
| Line 71: | Line 121: | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk1]] | [[Category:Mondeo_Mk1]] | ||
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk2]] | [[Category:Mondeo_Mk2]] | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
Latest revision as of 21:11, 4 March 2011
For more information, visit the Ford Mondeo forum on TalkFord.com, the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.
 Overview Guide | |
| Ford Model: | Mondeo |
|---|---|
| Petrol/Diesel: | ??? |
| Estimated Cost: | ??? |
| Difficulty? | ??? |
| How long does this take? | ??? |
Contents
Brake Parts Change
This includes changing brake pads, discs, calipers and flexible hoses. Brake/Clutch Bleeding procedures are also included. The procedure for Mk3/4 should be almost identical, however the tools required may be slightly different due to different calipers and systems being used.
DISCLAIMER: Proper function of the brake system is vital and could be a matter of life and death to you and/or others. If you do not have access to the proper tools needed for this procedure DO NOT attempt any work on the brakes. Should you proceed be sure to check, and double check, that ALL procedures have been carried out correctly and ALL parts are properly fitted before driving the car.
Front Brake Pads - Mk1/2
Tools required:
7mm allen key
Tools would be nice to have:
Long Nose Pilers
G-Clamp
WD40 or similar penetrating spray
Wire brush
Copper Grease (or CeraTec)
Procedure
1. Turn off ignition, and apply brake around 15 times to get rid of the residual servo vacuum.
2. Jack up the car and take off the wheel (obviously)
3. Take out the 2 plastic caps at the back of the caliper, covering the slider bolts. Then undo the sliding bolts with 7mm allen key. Make sure the allen key is fully inserted or you may risk rounding off the socket. Beware, they can be hard to remove if brakes haven't been serviced for a while. Use a fair amount of WD40 or similar and be patient. You can take the bolts out but you don't have to. However it's a good chance to give that slider bolt a good clean. It's important that the sliding bolts clear the caliper carrier, Longnose pilers is handy to pull them out.
4. Take off the caliper retaining spring facing you. Preferably using the pilers as sometimes it will fly off and retrieving such item in a mess is no fun.
5. You should be able to take off the caliper now. A little wiggle, or a bit of mild force maybe required as the clearance between the disc and pads are minute. If it simply won't let go check the sliding bolts again. Do not let the flexible hose take the weight or it may damage the hose, use a strip or "spider/bungee" strap and hang it from the spring.
6. Remove the pads.
7. Now you need to wind back the caliper piston. A G-Clamp is preferable tool. You can either use a flat file (what I use normally) or the old brake pad to cover the piston and push it back. When doing so undo the brake fluid reservoir cap and keep an eye on the fluid level. Make sure it doesn't overflow especially when you have got one side of the car jacked up. Also be careful that the other end of the clamp is on the caliper body not on the flexible hose connector.
8. Fit Pads. Apply a thin amount of copper grease to the BACK of the new brake pads. This helps reducing brake squeal. Be careful NOT to get the friction side contaminated or you will need to get a set of new pads (should you value your life).
9. Refit the caliper, if you have taken out the sliding bolts it's a good chance to give them a good clean and apply copper grease on them. Only a tiny amount along the circumference is enough. Make sure the caps are back on. Put back the spring clip. This can be a little tricky, but again, patience is the key. One trick is to put one end in first, the the other end into the hole and pull the spring down round the carrier. Be careful not to let it fly off.
10. Refit wheel, lower the car and drive carefully for the first few miles as new pads need time to bed in and in the event should you have made a mistake, God forbid it.
Front Brake Discs - Mk1/2
Tools Required:
15mm socket
Copper Grease (or CeraTec)
Tools would be nice to have:
Lump hammer/rubber mallet
WD40 or similar penetrating spray
Wire brush
Acetylene torch (heating up the disc for a few minutes could do wonders, but DO NOT apply WD40 or any kind of penetrating spray to the disc before it has cooled down)
Angle Grinder and chisel (as a last resort)
Procedure
[Slots in between [Front Brake Pads - Mk1/2] Step 5-6.
6. To remove the caliper carrier, there are two 15mm bolts at the back holding them on. May need a bit of force and some WD40/penetrating spray to undo them.
7. Remove the disc retaining clips (they may or may not be present). Long nose pilers helps in this case to pull them out. Unless if you have got new ones flatten them with the pilers and keep them aside for reuse later. If you're lucky the disc can now easily be pulled out, however a rubber mallet or lump hammer may be useful to help tab the disc out. Use moderate but not overly excessive force and start out by hitting the disc BETWEEN the lugs - DO NOT hit the lugs themselves Hit it a few times between each lug then the opposing side, alternating between each lug. If that won't work give the hub rear surroundings a good soaking with lots of WD40 or similar, let it soak in for as long as possible (preferably several hours or even overnight) and run a wire brush around the rear of the discs and try again. If the disc is still stuck try hitting the disc hard alternately from the front and the back, turning the disc after every few whacks. Keep using fair amounts of WD40 and be patient. If the disc is still totally siezed and welded to the hub you may have to cut it up. Use an angle grinder and cut the disc from edge to hub (several cuts may be needed), pry a chisel into the cut, work it with the hammer and the disc WILL break into pieces and come off.
8. Clean the wheel hub thoroughly using wire brush and put copper grease onto the wheel hub surface, this will make it much easier removing the disc upon replacement.
9. Clean the new disc with brake cleaner and fit the disc on. Install the spring clip if available.
10. Reinstall caliper carrier.
Front Caliper Change
Continue from Front Brake Pads - Mk1/2] Step 5.
Use spanner to loosen the flexible hose on the caliper. Then turn the caliper to undo the thread. Do not let the flexible hose to take the weight of the caliper.
Refit in reverse order.
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