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Difference between revisions of "Waterpump belt (TDDi) change"

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(TDDI Waterpump Belt Change)
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{{note|'''The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.'''<br>
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'''For more information, visit the [http://www.talkford.com/forum/596-mondeo/ Ford Mondeo] forum on [http://www.talkford.com TalkFord.com], the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.'''}}
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|data1  = '''Mondeo'''
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== TDDI Waterpump Belt Change ==
 
== TDDI Waterpump Belt Change ==

Revision as of 13:41, 1 April 2011

The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.
For more information, visit the Ford Mondeo forum on TalkFord.com, the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.

Fordwiki infobox.png
Overview Guide
Ford Model: Mondeo
Petrol/Diesel: ????
Estimated Cost: ????
Difficulty? ????
How long does this take? ????
The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.
For more information, visit the Ford Mondeo forum on TalkFord.com, the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.

Fordwiki infobox.png
Overview Guide
Ford Model: Mondeo
Petrol/Diesel: Diesel
Estimated Cost: '
Difficulty? Low to Medium
How long does this take? 2 hours





TDDI Waterpump Belt Change

If your car has an engine cover, check the areas around the oil filler cap & dipstick aren’t full of grit (brush/hoover/wipe if they are), undo the oil filler cap & pull out the dipstick & whip the cover off. Refit the dipstick & oil filler cap, and remove the battery box cover to improve access – tie a big of rag or similar around the battery positive terminal to prevent a nasty short;

Unclip the hose that runs along the top/front of the head from the clips (4 of them) & tie it back (e.g. round the oil filler hole);

Undo the two hose clips (use a 6mm spanner) that hold the inlet manifold to metal pipe rubber elbow on, & remove the elbow. Mine was filthy with oil & soot on the inside, don't be shocked if yours is too;

There are two bolts (use a 10mm spanner) that hold the metal turbo pipe onto a bracket on the side of the engine, you'll need undo those to let you get the belt off;

On the top of the tensioner, you'll see a 1/4" square hole - use a socket ratchet to rotate the tensioner clockwise. If you haven't got a 1/4" ratchet, get one because it makes it very easy - you can't do it just by tugging on it;

With the tension off the belt, you can ping the belt off the cam pulley, then de-tension again to get the belt between the tensioner wheel & the inside of the metal turbo pipe bracket, then winkle the belt out between the outside of the bracket & the pipe (the 10mm bolts you removed earlier).

To fit the new belt (FINIS code 1120199), loosen the tensioner again, & _carefully_ move the belt through the gap, pass the other side through the turbo pipe/bracket gap, fit one end on the water pump pulley, then de-tension again to fit over the cam pulley;

Check the belt is aligned properly, then refit the 10mm bolts. This may be difficult – I found the metal pipe & bracket wouldn't line up without someone else leaning on the pipe, tighten as much as you can one handed on a regular spanner;

Refit the rubber inlet hose & tighten the hose clips - I just did them up as tight as I could with a 6mm socket on a 3/8ths extension bar, one-handed screwdriver style.

Untie the front coolant return hose & refit to the clips, check the front inlet manifold hose clip isn’t in a position where the coolant hose will rub on it.

Refit the battery cover Start the engine & check alignment again. Refit the engine cover, if you have one.

Final suggestion - keep a 6mm socket & bits handy for a few days in case I'm wrong about the torque on the hose clips. :)