Difference between revisions of "Water Pump Replacement - Duratec V6"

Latest revision as of 20:28, 23 April 2011

Water Pump Replacement - Duratec V6

Background

A common fault of V6 water pumps is for the plastic impellor blades to break away, causing untold amounts of damage to the V6 engine - far better to replace the pump with a metal one. Carry on reading for more details...

The Haynes manual states that to replace the pump or pump parts, the cooling system must be drained. This is not true. If you are only replacing the pump or impeller assembly, simply stop any air entering the waterjacket by unscrewing the pressure cap (filler), cover with cling film or a plastic bag and screw the cap back in place, over the bag/film. This will stop any air entering from the only available breather in the entire system!

The waterpump is located at the right hand side of the engine compartment looking into the engine bay, near the battery tray.

Parts

Bucket of soapy water - when you separate the pump, there will be a discharge of antifreeze. This is damaging to drives, and should be washed away as soon as possible. 8mm socket and wrench 8mm ring key Flat-blade screwdriver Length of stout wire or coat hanger.

Method

First of all, disconnect the battery, you don't want to take any chances!

Remove the plastic cover at the front of the engine using a socket or ring key, replace the bolts back into the mating threads for safe keeping. You should now see 3 pulleys and one belt.

To remove the belt, simply push the tensioner assembly into the engine bay with one hand and slip the belt from it's location. Note which way the belt come off for re-assembly.

It's easier to unplug the Throttle position sensor from the Throttle body and also any vacuum pipes from the bellow assembly which will impair removal of the pump.

Remove the belt tensioner by removing the attaching bolt from the engine block flange. This is to ease access. Note: the tensioner is a complete unit and will not "spring open" by removing it.

There are 8 bolts retaining the pump in position, 3 of which hold the assembly to the engine block, the others secure the impeller assembly to the pump housing. It is necessary to remove all bolts. Leave one of the 3 bolts in position till last. This stops the unit moving about when removing the 5 off bolts.

Once all bolts are removed, the impeller part will need to be prised from the housing, using a flat blade screwdriver, insert into the small hollow on the casting body and slightly twist to break the seal, watch your feet, the antifreeze will run out (remember the bucket).

Here's the fiddly bit. I tried to remove the unit from the top end of the unit, but due to all the pipes etc., it's impossible!. Get yourself a length of wire or wire coathanger and make a small hook on one end. Attach the hook end through a bolt hole in the unit and lower it to the ground, through the engine compartment. This will also be used when fitting the new unit so don't discard it.

I found a lot of old gasket material stuck to the pump housing flange. To remove this, a flat blade screwdriver was used. Before scraping the gasket off, bung the water hole in the housing with a lump of sponge, you don't want bits of rubber floating around your cooling system!!!

When gasket face is clean "and sponge is removed" you are ready to it the new unit

Using your "wire", place the unit on the ground so you can thread it up through the engine bay, have the new gasket and one of the 5 short bolts near to hand.

Slip the new gasket over the unit and place into the housing, gently insert the bolt into the unit and guide through a gasket hole, just give the bolt a few turns to ensure the pump won't fall off when you let go.

Replace all other bolts, again, be gentle when guiding through the gasket material.

As with all gasket faces, it's best to tighten bolts in a sequence so as not to distort the gasket and faces. Hand tighten all bolts then "diagonally" tighten in sequence, there is probably a specified torque setting for these bolts but you try getting a Torque bar in there! Use common sense and do not over tighten, remember the engine block is alloy.

Replace the tensioner and belt.

Replace any pipes/wires you removed earlier.

Remove the bag/film from the filler cap and replace the cap.

Double check everything is where it should be and you've no "spares" lying around (apart from the crap plastic impeller).

You may have to top up the coolant level at this stage, I went slightly over the max level.

Star the engine and allow to tick over. When the thermostat reaches temperature and opens, the water will flow and you coolant level will drop, top up accordingly.

Have a look for leaks, if you have any, don't blame me

Refit the plastic front cover......Done!!