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Difference between revisions of "Headlight wiring"
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*RH Dip beam: Blue/Green | *RH Dip beam: Blue/Green | ||
*Negative: Black/Violet | *Negative: Black/Violet | ||
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| + | |||
| + | == What use is this to me? == | ||
| + | There can be many reasons, but one good example is a popular mod for the Mk4.0, which is to fit aftermarket daytime running light (DRL) units. | ||
| + | If the kit contains one ballast that drives both units, a good location to fit it would be underneath the left headlight. | ||
| + | |||
| + | That way, you don't have to tap into the ground wire of the lamp itself. | ||
| + | Just crimp on a ring connector and screw it to the chassis using one of the existing six or so nuts below the air filter box. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Then, wire up the +12V inputs using one of the methods below: | ||
| + | * T-tap (quick and dirty) | ||
| + | * Splice, solder, and cover with shrink tubing (reliable and beautiful, if done right) | ||
| + | * Home made tap loom using bullet/blade connectors and spare wires (if you're uncomfortable with splicing, but good with a crimping tool) | ||
[[Category:Mondeo_Mk4]] | [[Category:Mondeo_Mk4]] | ||
Latest revision as of 08:51, 29 May 2013
Contents
Headlight wiring for Mondeo Mk4
Colour codes for the Mk4 Mondeo headlight wiring, shamelessly "obtained" from a post 4titx made on one of the affiliated forums.
Left headlamp unit
- LH Ignition Live: Violet/White
- LH Sidelight: Yellow/Blue
- LH Dip beam: Brown/Blue
- Negative: Black/Yellow
Right headlamp unit
- RH ignition Live: Violet/White
- RH Sidelight: Brown/Yellow
- RH Dip beam: Blue/Green
- Negative: Black/Violet
What use is this to me?
There can be many reasons, but one good example is a popular mod for the Mk4.0, which is to fit aftermarket daytime running light (DRL) units. If the kit contains one ballast that drives both units, a good location to fit it would be underneath the left headlight.
That way, you don't have to tap into the ground wire of the lamp itself. Just crimp on a ring connector and screw it to the chassis using one of the existing six or so nuts below the air filter box.
Then, wire up the +12V inputs using one of the methods below:
- T-tap (quick and dirty)
- Splice, solder, and cover with shrink tubing (reliable and beautiful, if done right)
- Home made tap loom using bullet/blade connectors and spare wires (if you're uncomfortable with splicing, but good with a crimping tool)
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