Difference between revisions of "Waterpump belt (TDDi) change"

Latest revision as of 04:00, 22 May 2011

Overview Guide
Ford Model:	Mondeo
Petrol/Diesel:	Diesel
Estimated Cost:	'
Difficulty?	Low to Medium
How long does this take?	2 hours
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TDDI Waterpump Belt Change

If your car has an engine cover, check the areas around the oil filler cap & dipstick aren’t full of grit (brush/hoover/wipe if they are), undo the oil filler cap & pull out the dipstick & whip the cover off. Refit the dipstick & oil filler cap, and remove the battery box cover to improve access – tie a big of rag or similar around the battery positive terminal to prevent a nasty short;

Unclip the hose that runs along the top/front of the head from the clips (4 of them) & tie it back (e.g. round the oil filler hole);

Undo the two hose clips (use a 6mm spanner) that hold the inlet manifold to metal pipe rubber elbow on, & remove the elbow. Mine was filthy with oil & soot on the inside, don't be shocked if yours is too;

There are two bolts (use a 10mm spanner) that hold the metal turbo pipe onto a bracket on the side of the engine, you'll need undo those to let you get the belt off;

On the top of the tensioner, you'll see a 1/4" square hole - use a socket ratchet to rotate the tensioner clockwise. If you haven't got a 1/4" ratchet, get one because it makes it very easy - you can't do it just by tugging on it;

With the tension off the belt, you can ping the belt off the cam pulley, then de-tension again to get the belt between the tensioner wheel & the inside of the metal turbo pipe bracket, then winkle the belt out between the outside of the bracket & the pipe (the 10mm bolts you removed earlier).

To fit the new belt (FINIS code 1120199), loosen the tensioner again, & _carefully_ move the belt through the gap, pass the other side through the turbo pipe/bracket gap, fit one end on the water pump pulley, then de-tension again to fit over the cam pulley;

Check the belt is aligned properly, then refit the 10mm bolts. This may be difficult – I found the metal pipe & bracket wouldn't line up without someone else leaning on the pipe, tighten as much as you can one handed on a regular spanner;

Refit the rubber inlet hose & tighten the hose clips - I just did them up as tight as I could with a 6mm socket on a 3/8ths extension bar, one-handed screwdriver style.

Untie the front coolant return hose & refit to the clips, check the front inlet manifold hose clip isn’t in a position where the coolant hose will rub on it.

Refit the battery cover Start the engine & check alignment again. Refit the engine cover, if you have one.

Final suggestion - keep a 6mm socket & bits handy for a few days in case I'm wrong about the torque on the hose clips. :)