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Difference between revisions of "Clutch replacement"

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(Changing the Clutch on a Mk III Mondeo)
(Changing the Clutch on a Mk.3 Mondeo (WORK IN PROGRESS))
 
(3 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)
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== '''Changing the Clutch on a Mk III Mondeo''' ==
+
== '''Changing the Clutch on a Mk.3 Mondeo (WORK IN PROGRESS)''' ==
  
 
After attempting this job myself, on a drive way with minimal tools, I thought it would be helpful to post up the steps involved.
 
After attempting this job myself, on a drive way with minimal tools, I thought it would be helpful to post up the steps involved.
Line 5: Line 5:
 
Please bear in mind that my approach may not necessarily be the best way of doing it, but it worked for me!  Also bear in mind that these steps were carried out on a 54 plate 6 speeed TDCi model - although most 4 cylinder petrol cars will be similar, the intermediate steps will differ (no turbo pipes, different EGR pipes, gearchange cables and selector positions etc etc)
 
Please bear in mind that my approach may not necessarily be the best way of doing it, but it worked for me!  Also bear in mind that these steps were carried out on a 54 plate 6 speeed TDCi model - although most 4 cylinder petrol cars will be similar, the intermediate steps will differ (no turbo pipes, different EGR pipes, gearchange cables and selector positions etc etc)
  
[[Equipment used]]
+
===[[Tools Needed]]===
  
 
To do this job, you need a minimum of the following:
 
To do this job, you need a minimum of the following:
  
- At least one quality trolley jack (I used two for the job, it made it a lot easier to raise and lower the engine to disengage and re-engage the gearbox
+
*At least one quality trolley jack (I used two for the job, it made it a lot easier to raise and lower the engine to disengage and re-engage the gearbox
 +
*Stands
 +
*Some sort of engine support (300kg version will suffice as long as you are careful, although i found the Sealey model was a bit narrow; it did still work though)
 +
*some heavy duty ratchet straps (I used 3)
 +
*Set of Vortex sockets (standard may suffice, but makes this job a LOT easier when removing the drop links, when you need to hold the stud!)
 +
*Set of male and female Torx bits and sockets
 +
*Set of spanners - ratchet preferably
 +
*Screwdrivers
 +
*Good quality wire brush, paintbrushes for cleaning.
 +
*Plenty of clutch/brake cleaner and rags to keep things from leaking and for keeping things clean!
  
- Stands
+
[[File:01_New_Clutch_Kit.jpg|400px|right]]
  
- Some sort of engine support (300kg version will suffice as long as you are careful, although i found the Sealey model was a bit narrow; it did still work though)
 
  
- some heavy duty ratchet straps (I used 3)
+
===[[Parts Needed]]===
  
- Set of Vortex sockets (standard may suffice, but makes this job a LOT easier when removing the drop links, when you need to hold the stud!)
+
*Full clutch kit - DMF, friction plate, Pressure plate, CSC Slave Cylinder)
 
+
*Driveshaft oil seals
- Set of male and female Torx bits and sockets
+
*Clutch fluid (I used the genuine ford stuff, you need 1.6L for the TDCi 6 speed.  Its worth buying the Ford stuff
 
+
*Crankshaft oil seal (clutch end obviously!)
- Set of spanners - ratchet preferably
+
*Decent thread locking fluid
 
+
*Anti seize compound
- Screwdrivers
+
 
+
- Good quality wire brush, paintbrushes for cleaning.
+
 
+
- Plenty of clutch/brake cleaner and rags to keep things from leaking and for keeping things clean!
+
 
+
[[Parts Needed]]
+
 
+
[[File:01_New_Clutch_Kit.jpg|400px|left|The Parts needed]]- Full clutch kit - DMF, friction plate, Pressure plate, CSC Slave Cylinder)
+
 
+
- Driveshaft oil seals
+
 
+
- Clutch fluid (I used the genuine ford stuff, you need 1.6L for the TDCi 6 speed.  Its worth buying the Ford stuff
+
 
+
- Crankshaft oil seal (clutch end obviously!)
+
 
+
- Decent locking fluid
+
  
  

Latest revision as of 14:43, 12 February 2012

Changing the Clutch on a Mk.3 Mondeo (WORK IN PROGRESS)

After attempting this job myself, on a drive way with minimal tools, I thought it would be helpful to post up the steps involved.

Please bear in mind that my approach may not necessarily be the best way of doing it, but it worked for me! Also bear in mind that these steps were carried out on a 54 plate 6 speeed TDCi model - although most 4 cylinder petrol cars will be similar, the intermediate steps will differ (no turbo pipes, different EGR pipes, gearchange cables and selector positions etc etc)

Tools Needed

To do this job, you need a minimum of the following:

  • At least one quality trolley jack (I used two for the job, it made it a lot easier to raise and lower the engine to disengage and re-engage the gearbox
  • Stands
  • Some sort of engine support (300kg version will suffice as long as you are careful, although i found the Sealey model was a bit narrow; it did still work though)
  • some heavy duty ratchet straps (I used 3)
  • Set of Vortex sockets (standard may suffice, but makes this job a LOT easier when removing the drop links, when you need to hold the stud!)
  • Set of male and female Torx bits and sockets
  • Set of spanners - ratchet preferably
  • Screwdrivers
  • Good quality wire brush, paintbrushes for cleaning.
  • Plenty of clutch/brake cleaner and rags to keep things from leaking and for keeping things clean!
01 New Clutch Kit.jpg


Parts Needed

  • Full clutch kit - DMF, friction plate, Pressure plate, CSC Slave Cylinder)
  • Driveshaft oil seals
  • Clutch fluid (I used the genuine ford stuff, you need 1.6L for the TDCi 6 speed. Its worth buying the Ford stuff
  • Crankshaft oil seal (clutch end obviously!)
  • Decent thread locking fluid
  • Anti seize compound