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Difference between revisions of "Painting - DIY Style"
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+ | {{note|'''For more information, visit [http://www.talkford.com TalkFord.com], the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.'''}} | ||
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+ | |caption = Overview Guide | ||
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+ | |label1 = Ford Model: | ||
+ | |data1 = '''All''' | ||
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+ | |label2 = Petrol/Diesel: | ||
+ | |data2 = '''???''' | ||
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+ | |label3 = Estimated Cost: | ||
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+ | |label4 = Difficulty? | ||
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== Painting - DIY style == | == Painting - DIY style == | ||
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Two weeks later, when the laquer has properly hardened and set use a cutting compound such as T-Cut or Autoglym Renovator to smooth the top finish of laquer - this will produce a smooth feel to the paint and when waxed will give it the perfect shine. | Two weeks later, when the laquer has properly hardened and set use a cutting compound such as T-Cut or Autoglym Renovator to smooth the top finish of laquer - this will produce a smooth feel to the paint and when waxed will give it the perfect shine. | ||
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Latest revision as of 19:33, 20 February 2011
Overview Guide | |
Ford Model: | All |
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Petrol/Diesel: | ??? |
Estimated Cost: | ??? |
Difficulty? | ??? |
How long does this take? | ??? |
Painting - DIY style
Background
This is a description from Mirez of how he painted some of his car. We don't claim that its correct, but the results were very good. Do it at your own risk!!
Method
Sand original paint back using 1800 wet and dry paper so there are no scratches / chips or imperfections.
If ANY point has gone back to metal then primer needs to be applied - in layers 2 or 3 layers is best. Left overnight to fully dry
Sand back the primer using 1800 wet and dry, it needs to be smooth but avoid going back through to the metal - if you do you need to reapply the primer.
Wash the surface down so no residue from the sanding is left. Wait for the surface to completly dry
Apply the paint in layers, building them up so the whole area is well covered - allow drying time between each layer and apply a minimum of 2 layers.
The paint needs to be allowed a good 24 hours to dry, this is one of the most annoying steps - paint that looks dry and isn't tacky often is still wet just below the surface layer so it needs lots of time to try. I gave mine a whole week.
Finish here if its non metallic.
Metallic
If its metallic then you need to use the 1800 W&D to sand the paint back - you want to achive a dull, matt look to the paint without it going back through to the primer. This step is important, without it the colour will only look right from the painted angle, any other angle and it'll look too dark or too bright.
With that done wash the residue and give it plenty of drying time.
Apply laquer, this should give a nice shine back to the car - apply a number of layers and build it up - 3 layers minimum
Give the laquer a good 24 hours to harden before driving.
Two weeks later, when the laquer has properly hardened and set use a cutting compound such as T-Cut or Autoglym Renovator to smooth the top finish of laquer - this will produce a smooth feel to the paint and when waxed will give it the perfect shine.