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Difference between revisions of "V6 Vacuum Hose Replacement - Mk1"
(New page: V6 Mk1 Vacuum Hose Replacement Background This is common with aging Mk1 V6 engines. The secondary valves are vacuum operated and open and close to allow the engine to switch between 12va...) |
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| − | V6 Mk1 Vacuum Hose Replacement | + | == V6 Mk1 Vacuum Hose Replacement == |
| − | Background | + | === Background === |
This is common with aging Mk1 V6 engines. The secondary valves are vacuum operated and open and close to allow the engine to switch between 12valve (below 3200rpm) and 24valve (above 3200rpm) mode. The reasoning for this is 12valve motors typically have more torque at lower revs, while 24valve motors deliver more power at the top end. | This is common with aging Mk1 V6 engines. The secondary valves are vacuum operated and open and close to allow the engine to switch between 12valve (below 3200rpm) and 24valve (above 3200rpm) mode. The reasoning for this is 12valve motors typically have more torque at lower revs, while 24valve motors deliver more power at the top end. | ||
| − | |||
The vacuum pipes are made from plastic which over time get brittle from the heat in the engine bay. This causes them to crack which in turn allows the vacuum to leak, and leads to vacuum failure, where the secondaries cannot close themselves. As a result they are 'stuck' open and the car runs poorly below 3200rpm. | The vacuum pipes are made from plastic which over time get brittle from the heat in the engine bay. This causes them to crack which in turn allows the vacuum to leak, and leads to vacuum failure, where the secondaries cannot close themselves. As a result they are 'stuck' open and the car runs poorly below 3200rpm. | ||
| − | + | === Method === | |
| − | Method | + | |
This is relatively straight forward to fix. The vacuum hoses need to be replaced. This is not a difficult job, do-able for the DIY mechanic. Just be sure that when you pull off the old hoses, you make sure the new ones go on the right parts. Also take care when applying pressure to install the new hoses, that you don't damage or crack them. | This is relatively straight forward to fix. The vacuum hoses need to be replaced. This is not a difficult job, do-able for the DIY mechanic. Just be sure that when you pull off the old hoses, you make sure the new ones go on the right parts. Also take care when applying pressure to install the new hoses, that you don't damage or crack them. | ||
| − | |||
Two other components in this system are the solenoid switch that sends the signal to open and close the secondaries, and the mechanical diaphragm which physically pulls them open and closed. Of these two other components, it appears that the solenoid switch is the more likely component to fail. When I got the vacuum pipes replaced on mine, the solenoid switch had also failed, so I replaced that too. The UIM (Upper Intake Manifold) has to come off to get at all the vacuum pipes, so its worthwhile replacing the solenoid switch if you suspect that it's faulty. | Two other components in this system are the solenoid switch that sends the signal to open and close the secondaries, and the mechanical diaphragm which physically pulls them open and closed. Of these two other components, it appears that the solenoid switch is the more likely component to fail. When I got the vacuum pipes replaced on mine, the solenoid switch had also failed, so I replaced that too. The UIM (Upper Intake Manifold) has to come off to get at all the vacuum pipes, so its worthwhile replacing the solenoid switch if you suspect that it's faulty. | ||
| + | Submitted by Roadrunner | ||
| − | + | [[Category:Mechanical]] | |
Revision as of 18:06, 8 March 2007
V6 Mk1 Vacuum Hose Replacement
Background
This is common with aging Mk1 V6 engines. The secondary valves are vacuum operated and open and close to allow the engine to switch between 12valve (below 3200rpm) and 24valve (above 3200rpm) mode. The reasoning for this is 12valve motors typically have more torque at lower revs, while 24valve motors deliver more power at the top end.
The vacuum pipes are made from plastic which over time get brittle from the heat in the engine bay. This causes them to crack which in turn allows the vacuum to leak, and leads to vacuum failure, where the secondaries cannot close themselves. As a result they are 'stuck' open and the car runs poorly below 3200rpm.
Method
This is relatively straight forward to fix. The vacuum hoses need to be replaced. This is not a difficult job, do-able for the DIY mechanic. Just be sure that when you pull off the old hoses, you make sure the new ones go on the right parts. Also take care when applying pressure to install the new hoses, that you don't damage or crack them.
Two other components in this system are the solenoid switch that sends the signal to open and close the secondaries, and the mechanical diaphragm which physically pulls them open and closed. Of these two other components, it appears that the solenoid switch is the more likely component to fail. When I got the vacuum pipes replaced on mine, the solenoid switch had also failed, so I replaced that too. The UIM (Upper Intake Manifold) has to come off to get at all the vacuum pipes, so its worthwhile replacing the solenoid switch if you suspect that it's faulty.
Submitted by Roadrunner
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