Difference between revisions of "Brake Pads + Discs Replacement (Mondeo Mk1/2)"

Revision as of 18:29, 1 April 2009

Brake Parts Change

This includes changing brake pads, discs, calipers and flexible hoses. Brake/Clutch Bleeding procedures are also included. The procedure for Mk3/4 should be almost identical, however the tools required may be slightly different due to different calipers and systems being used.

Front Brake Pads - Mk1/2

Tools required: 7mm allen key

Tools would be nice to have: Long Nose Pilers G-Clamp Copper Grease (or CeraTec)

Procedure

1. Turn off ignition, and apply brake around 15 times to get rid of the residual servo vacuum.

2. Jack up the car and take off the wheel (obviously)

3. Take out the plastic caps at the back of the caliper, covering the slider bolts. Then undo the sliding bolts with 7mm allen key. Make sure the allen key is fully inserted or you may risk rounding off the socket. You can take the bolts out but you don't have to. However it's a good chance to give that slider bolt a good clean. It's important that the sliding bolts clear the caliper carrier, Longnose pilers is handy to pull them out.

4. Take off the caliper retaining spring facing you. Preferably using the pilers as sometimes it will fly off and retrieving such item in a mess is no fun.

5. You should be able to take off the caliper now. A little wiggle, or a bit of mild force maybe required as the clearance between the disc and pads are minute. If it simply won't let go check the sliding bolts again. Do not let the flexible hose take the weight or it may damage the hose.

6. Remove the pads.

7. Now you need to wind back the caliper piston. A G-Clamp is preferable tool. You can either use a flat file (what I use normally) or the old brake pad to cover the piston and push it back. When doing so undo the brake fluid reservoir cap and keep an eye on the fluid level. Make sure it doesn't overflow especially when you have got one side of the car jacked up. Also be careful that the other end of the clamp is on the caliper body not on the flexible hose connector.

8. Fit Pads. Apply copper grease to the BACK of the new brake pads. This helps reducing brake squeal. Be careful not to get the friction side contaminated or you will need to get a set of new pads (should you value your life).

9. Refit the caliper, if you have taken out the sliding bolts it's a good chance to give them a good clean and apply copper grease on them. Only a tiny amount along the circumference is enough. Make sure the caps are back on. Put back the spring clip. One trick is to put one end in first, the the other end into the hole and pull the spring down round the carrier. Be careful not to let it fly off.

10. Refit wheel, lower the car and be careful as new pads need time to bed in.

Front Brake Discs - Mk1/2

Tools Required: 15mm socket

Procedure

[Slots in between [Front Brake Pads - Mk1/2] Step 5-6.

6. To remove the caliper carrier, there are two 15mm bolts at the back holding them on. May need a bit of force and some penetrating spray to undo them.

7. Remove the disc retaining clips. Long nose pilers helps in this case to pull them out. Unless if you have got new ones flatten them with the pilers and keep them aside for reuse later. The disc can now be pulled out. A rubber mallet may be useful to help tab the disc out. If the disc is totally siezed and welded to the hub you may have to cut it up.

8. Clean the wheel hub and put copper grease onto the surface.

9. Clean the new disc with brake cleaner and fit the disc on. Install the spring clip.

10. Reinstall caliper carrier.