Registrations
We now manually approve all new user accounts due to a large influx of spam bots. Accounts are normally approved within 48 hours.
If you need any help with using this Wiki, please ask here: TalkFord.com Wiki Submission Forum
Difference between revisions of "Throttle Position Sensor"
(New page: Throttle Position Sensor A bad TPS can have many effects: hesitation on acceleration rough idle jerkiness rough running To identify a bad TPS, check the following methods: extr...) |
|||
Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
− | Throttle Position Sensor | + | == Throttle Position Sensor == |
+ | === Background === | ||
A bad TPS can have many effects: | A bad TPS can have many effects: | ||
− | |||
hesitation on acceleration | hesitation on acceleration | ||
rough idle | rough idle | ||
jerkiness | jerkiness | ||
− | rough running | + | rough running |
+ | === Method === | ||
To identify a bad TPS, check the following methods: | To identify a bad TPS, check the following methods: | ||
− | |||
extract the fault codes using a FCR (fault code reader) | extract the fault codes using a FCR (fault code reader) | ||
Line 17: | Line 17: | ||
It is a foolproof method. It requires only a metal pin, a multimeter with high imput impedance (any digital model will do) and some crocodile clamp leads. | It is a foolproof method. It requires only a metal pin, a multimeter with high imput impedance (any digital model will do) and some crocodile clamp leads. | ||
− | |||
Connect the black (negative) lead to a CLEAN engine part (ground) | Connect the black (negative) lead to a CLEAN engine part (ground) | ||
Line 31: | Line 30: | ||
The readout should, at all times, follow the linear motion of the throttle. If, the throttle is slowly opened, the readout should NEVER drop. If the throttle is slowly closed, the readout should NEVER rise. Not even for a short blip. If it falls to 0 at any given time, that is a 100% sure fire way to tell the TPS is gone. | The readout should, at all times, follow the linear motion of the throttle. If, the throttle is slowly opened, the readout should NEVER drop. If the throttle is slowly closed, the readout should NEVER rise. Not even for a short blip. If it falls to 0 at any given time, that is a 100% sure fire way to tell the TPS is gone. | ||
− | |||
Submitted by lurchy666 | Submitted by lurchy666 | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Category:Electrical]] |
Revision as of 19:11, 7 March 2007
Throttle Position Sensor
Background
A bad TPS can have many effects:
hesitation on acceleration rough idle jerkiness rough running
Method
To identify a bad TPS, check the following methods:
extract the fault codes using a FCR (fault code reader) remove the connector from the TPS (push the securing spring, then pull the plug down), check for any corrosion/deposits. They should be spot clean. Use some contact spray for minor cases. the process described below.
It is a foolproof method. It requires only a metal pin, a multimeter with high imput impedance (any digital model will do) and some crocodile clamp leads.
Connect the black (negative) lead to a CLEAN engine part (ground) Set the multimeter to the range that allows measurement of 0-15V (usually that will be 20V. Only DC will work. Use a set of pliers to force the pin THROUGH the middle lead. Connect the TPS to the connector Connect the red lead to the pin Switch on the ignition, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. The multimeter should read at least 0.4V. Move the throttle SLOWLY through its entire range while watching the multimeter: When the trottle is full open, the meter should read 4.2V or more. (max 5V). Go through this process several times, as slowly as possible. You should see 0.01V steps.
The readout should, at all times, follow the linear motion of the throttle. If, the throttle is slowly opened, the readout should NEVER drop. If the throttle is slowly closed, the readout should NEVER rise. Not even for a short blip. If it falls to 0 at any given time, that is a 100% sure fire way to tell the TPS is gone.
Submitted by lurchy666