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Difference between revisions of "Fuel Pump Change TDCi"

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(Created page with "'''How to change the fuel pump on a Mondeo Mk3 TDCi''' WHEN THE FUEL PUMP BREAKS UP EVERYTHING NEEDS TO BE FULLY FLUSHED (Tank,Low pressure lines,new filter,pipes from filter to...")
 
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Latest revision as of 15:01, 27 November 2011

How to change the fuel pump on a Mondeo Mk3 TDCi

WHEN THE FUEL PUMP BREAKS UP EVERYTHING NEEDS TO BE FULLY FLUSHED (Tank,Low pressure lines,new filter,pipes from filter to pump,from pump to injectors (The common rail bar is the worst part to clean!)

tools. 10mm socket 17mm spanner 13mm socket tdci fuel pump timing sprocket (plastic hold for timing sprocket) and other good selection of tools. Laser injector socket

I was replacing injectors at the same time so I will add this...

make sure system has lost all pressure...

Any work on the injection system is dangerous so make sure you understand this (before carrying out any work) (I will not be held responsible for your injury)


First remove the 4 brass injector pipes leading to the injectors a 17mm spanner is the tool for this, Then remove the leak off pipes which you can use a small flat blade to prise them off, then unplug the 4 gray injector electrical plugs, remove the oil seals from the injectors these lift up with a flat blade screw driver. then lower the Laser injector socket around the injector simply undo then remove..

Next remove the egr valve 2 8mm bolts and a jubly clip and vac line, then undo all 10mm bolts around intake manifold make sure you take care when removing these that none shear off....

once this is out the way remove the common rail after undoing the 17mm nut off the bottom there are 3 13mm bolts holding this.

Now remove the last brass pipe from the fuel pump 17mm again. then remove the low pressure lines the return simply unclips from the fuel pump and the main feed is held at the bottom with a 17mm nut. these pipes have a 10mm nut holding them in place.

now remove 1 10mm bolt holding power steering tank (Pulls out the way) and remove 2 10mm bolts holding header tank (Pulls out the way) and this will make access easy remove the engine mount damper 2 10mm bolts.

Remove the 2 wiring plugs going to the fuel pump

remove the fuel pump access cover there is a tools for this in the Laser timing tool kit

I jacked up the O/S and put it in 4th gear now you can spin the drivers wheel, the hole in the timing spocket needs to be at 1 O'Clock once In the correct place. the car can be lowered down.

Now insert the plastic timing tool into the access hole. once in place you will see 3 small holes these are for the hidden torx bolts (T45) the torx bit comes in the Laser timing kit.

(This was the worst part for me) as I released 2 of the torx bolts fine and the bottom one was a pain you have to cut about 1.5cm off the tool to make it fit between the body and the engine. On mine I had to grind down the Torx splines due to it not locating correctly(YOU MAY NOT NEED TO DO THIS ON YOURS).

once all 3 torx bolts are loose you can release the 2 10mm bolts to the right on the fuel pump on the bracket

Remove to 4 10mm timing chain sprocket bolts once removed the fuel pump will pull away from the engine.

Putting it all back together is the same as removal.

  • Few things to remember when taking this job on*

-make sure everything is kept clean anything in the fuel tank/lines will take the injectors out in a second. -only use ford fuel filters 2 micron -you will need to steam clean the tank and get a magnet around it to pick up swarf -you need a new fuel pump gasket -you will need to prime all the fuel lines when you fill the tank up -this is a big job when done correctly so don't take short cuts -make sure swarf is in no parts of the system including the common rail pressure bar -you will need the laser injector socket and timing kit to carry out this job -lots of brake cleaner for metal/platic pipes think I used 12 tins -injectors need recoding -make sure none of the pipes are leaking as this will cause problems