EGR Valve and Inlet Manifold Clearout TDCi

EGR Valve and Inlet Manifold Clearout - 2004 TDCi Euro 4

Disclaimer

Disclaimer: As we live in a litigious world I have to make it clear that no guarantee or warranties are expressed or implied, you follow this guide entirely at your own risk. If you, your car, or any 3rd party is damaged as a consequence of following this guide that is not my responsibility. Hope that is clear!

Introduction

EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is a system used on modern engines to reduce the emissions. Basically it is implemented by piping a route from the exhaust system back to the inlet manifold via a vacuum and/or electronically activated valve that operates depending upon engine conditions.

The EGR circuit, valve and inlet manifold therefore receive an amount of carbon build that is fed from the exhaust, which after a period of time and miles build up and start to cause restrictions in the inlet tract leading to engine inefficiencies: poor performance, increased fuel consumption, smokey, ‘noisy’ and general poor engine running.

For more information on the EGR, take a look at this Wikipedia article on the EGR system.

As my car was experiencing these symptoms, I decided to clean out the EGR valve and inlet manifold to try and restore the engines performance.

The photo sequence that follows shows the work involved on a 2004 Ford Mondeo 130 TDCi ‘Euro4’, though I am sure other models will be similar.

Parts and Tools Needed

The work involved is simple and should well be in the capabilities of the home mechanic, the car doesn’t need to be lifted and the work is all done at the front of the car.

A basic range of metric sockets and spanners are needed (ranging from 7mm upto 13mm), socket extension bar, screwdrivers, newspaper, paper towel, a small torque wrench is needed to refit the inlet manifold.

It is a messy job so suitable protective gloves are needed – though normal latex gloves will melt when it comes to spraying Carburettor Cleaner on them, Nitrile gloves or even washing up gloves will be stronger. You may wish to consider a suitable face mask to reduce the risk of inhaling carbon dust. Old clothes/overalls should be worn.

At least one can of ‘Carburettor Cleaner’ spray is needed, though best to get 2 cans. This is available from any motor factors.

A small brass/wire brush, and a green ‘scotch brite’ scouring pad will also be useful to have to hand. (available from tool suppliers, eg Cromwell Tools, ebay, DIY stores, motor factors - even Tesco and Sainsbury!)

A ‘Mityvac’ hand operated vacuum pump, if you have access to one, can be used to test the function of the EGR valve when it is removed and on the bench. These pumps are very useful and can be used to prime the fuel filter, bleed brakes, test vacuum systems, etc.

I found that the manifold to cylinder head ‘gaskets’ were made of rubber and were reusable, as was the rubber gasket seal between manifold and EGR valve and the metal gasket between EGR valve and the EGR pipe. You may wish to err on the side of caution and renew these parts.

Removing and Cleaning the EGR Valve

I did the work first thing in the morning so the engine was cold, no concerns of getting burnt.

Open the bonnet, remove the engine cover (remove the oil dipstick, and pull the cover up and off. Put the dipstick back into its tube)

This picture shows the EGR Valve that is to be removed (inside the red box):

• • to be continued**