Alternator Replacement V6 Duratec

The Ford Mondeo hit our roads in 1993, and has consistently been a sales success. Now on its 4th incarnation, it remains a drivers favourite.
For more information, visit the Ford Mondeo forum on TalkFord.com, the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.

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Overview Guide
Ford Model:	Mondeo
Petrol/Diesel:	????
Estimated Cost:	????
Difficulty?	????
How long does this take?	????

Alternator Replacement V6 Duratec

Background And Observations

I had to replace the alternator as the battery warning warning light was coming on at 4,000 rpm. This only became apparent a few weeks ago, after driving through a deep puddle of water.

I sympathise with other Meggers who have done this themselves as it was the most fiddly job I have ever done on any vehicle.

• The bottom bolt was easy but the top bolt required a combination of extra long "wobble bar" extensions and universals joints before I could crack it. BTW for future reference the bolts are 13mm.

i used a 13mm socket, then a universal joint, then a long reach extension, then another universal joint then another long reach bar then a large ratchet, breaker or torgue wrench, also get the car as high as possible as long as its safe {edited by soomo }

• The hardest part of the whole job was trying to get to the 10mm bolt on the rear bracket of the alternator as the rear down pipe and driveshaft intermediate bearing is in the way. I finally managed to undo this one using a long reach ratchet spanner.

I noticed when I took the brushes off that one was almost unworn but the other was completely worn and the copper ring had a deep groove in it! I fitted an exchange alternator from Ford (£167.00 after discount) and a new aux belt to be on the safe side. The car is now running better than ever (maybe due to the ECU being reset by having to disconnect the battery?)and as a bonus the squeaking noise at idle has disappeared.

Tips

Firstly, get a garage do it! However if you really want to do it yourself then...

• If you have access to a slim air ratchet then the top bolt can be cracked open using just a straight extension placed horizontally over the exhaust manifold and o2 sensor, there is then just enough room to get the ratchet in at the gearbox end of the engine.

• No air ratchet! then a straight extension placed as above with a UJ on the end and another longer extension which is angled down below subframe will work. It did for me!

• When refitting the alternator get the top bolt in first! I fitted the bottom bolt in first and then spent an hour trying to get the top bolt in.

• The lower alternator mounting is an extremely tight fit. To get the holes to line up, insert the bolt from the outside ie into the outer part of the mounting bracket and tighten it up. As the end of the bolt is tapered it will line up the holes in the alternator and the mounting bracket.

• You will need some sort of crow bar / pry bar to get the alternator off and on its mounting bracket as it is a very tight fit.

• Place a towel or something on the driveshaft and steering rubber gaitors to prevent damage as you remove the alternator.