Registrations
We now manually approve all new user accounts due to a large influx of spam bots. Accounts are normally approved within 48 hours.
If you need any help with using this Wiki, please ask here: TalkFord.com Wiki Submission Forum
Boot Release - Internal Switch - Mk2
For more information, visit the Ford Mondeo forum on TalkFord.com, the definitive resource site covering all Fords from the present day to the 1970's.
 Overview Guide | |
| Ford Model: | Mondeo |
|---|---|
| Petrol/Diesel: | ??? |
| Estimated Cost: | ??? |
| Difficulty? | ??? |
| How long does this take? | ??? |
Contents
Internal Boot Release - Mk2
Background
When Ford brought out the face-lifted Mk2 Mondeo they very thoughtfully gave it a motor driven boot/hatch/tailgate which allowed the boot to be released from the remote radio frequency key fob. This modification takes advantage of this feature to allow the addition of an internal boot release. If you have the very early IR type key you will not have this remote opening but you should still be able to fit this internal release button although it is a bit more involved
Parts
KA/Fiesta Boot Release switch 3 lengths of wire (0.5mm), preferably different colours Either a socket for the switch, window switch, sunroof, electric up/down seat etc, or 4 off small Faston crimps (red size) which will push on to the switch terminals.
The picture shows where I have positioned the switch. If you also want to do likewise, take care that you don’t position it too close to the mirror control as there is a part of the dash structure running just to the left of the mirror switch that will foul with the boot release switch.
The Circuit
Method
Take 1 length of wire, preferably black, and cut a short length. Link pins 4 to 7. Then use a piece of suitable length, connect the linked pins to the black wire going to the head light illumination bulb Take a second length of wire, red would be good or Orange/black if available. Connect one end of this wire to pin 5 of the switch and the other end to the Orange/Black going to the other side of the head light switch illumination bulb. Connect the third wire to pin 2 of the switch. The connection of the other end will depend on the build date of you Mondeo.
Build date 1/1997 onwards. (RF remote)
This is the simplest one. Connect the 3rd wire to pin 3 (Black/Yellow) on the middle connector of the Alarm module. You may find that you only have 2 plugs in the alarm module although there are positions for 3. The middle plug is green in colour. Pin 3 is the 3rd wire from the left on the front row.
Build date before 1/1997. (IR Remote)
The pre 1997 Mondeo is fitted with a tailgate/declid relay. As this relay can only be energised with the ignition in position 0 the boot will only open, other than with a key, when the engine is not running. If this is not a problem then simply connect the 3rd wire to the Black/Yellow wire going to the relay base. You will need to identify the relay (K110) which is to be found in the area of the RH A-pillar, centre. Should it be preferred to make the boot opening not reliant on the Ignition switch position you will need to modify the wiring to this relay. To do this first identify the thick Orange/Black (2.5mm) wire going from the relay base to the ignition switch. Unfortunately the wire from the relay base to the boot lock solenoid is also a 2.5mm Orange/Black wire. To identify the correct wire probe both of them with a multimeter or bulb. The wire showing 12-14 volts with the ignition in position 0 is the one you want. This wire will need to be cut and the end going to the relay to be connected to a permanent 12 volt using a similar gauge of wire.
Further Options
As the boot release button under the light cluster is live whenever the alarm is not set, on the 1997-on cars, there is always the chance that someone for whatever reason may pop the boot whilst you are sitting at lights etc. Because of this I have disabled the boot release button by removing the Black/Yellow wire from the switch on the rear of the boot lock.
As a further precaution I have also prevented the button from being pushed by fitting a copper olive from a 15mm plumbing fitting to the shaft of the actuating cam. This last modification is not really necessary unless like me you have delocked your car and have wired the switch to unlock the car for those odd occasions when your fob fails.
Your Privacy Choices